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There are hills to hike, waterfalls to explore, and plates of eggs Benedict to devour. This is your ultimate Pacific Northwest travel bucket list. And, it’s just in time for kicking off the New Year!
It’s loaded with seaside cocktails, DIY brewery tours, and can’t-miss donuts. It features remote fishing destinations, sea-to-table cuisine, and some of the most Instagram-worthy spots around.
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How one weekend on Vancouver Island can leave you rested, refreshed, and restored.
For our wedding anniversary, we returned to the place where it all began — Vancouver Island. Fourteen years ago, for our honeymoon we drove up to Vancouver B.C., spent the night, woke up the next day, and took the ferry to Nanaimo. Then we made the gorgeous drive to Tofino. In my naiveté, I had envisioned a honeymoon spent somewhere tropical. What I did not know back then was how restorative it would be to have a quiet place to return to years down the road. A place where we could reflect and feel gratitude for the life we have built together.
Flash forward a few years and Kenmore Air has made traveling to Vancouver Island a breeze. A little over an hour flight from Seattle and you are quickly descending into a place like no other. A scenic drive through a serpentine, tree-lined highway which skirts along lakes and provincial parks sets the stage for the quiet oasis of Tofino.
The Wickaninnish Inn provided the perfect backdrop for a tranquil, romantic, and remarkable time away. Upon checking in to the Wickaninnish Inn we instantly felt at home in its graciously laid out rooms. The breathtaking ocean views were merely the cherry on top to the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in.
Since we flew to Vancouver Island from Seattle we tried to keep our luggage to a minimum. Once at the Wickaninnish Inn we were overjoyed to see the hotel provided rain boots and rain suits for each guest. Eager to explore the area, we donned our rain boots and walked along the beach before our much-anticipated dinner at the Pointe, the Wickaninnish Inn’s oceanfront restaurant.
In honor of World Ocean Day, we dined on an ocean-inspired tasting menu of everything from barnacles to scallops and a plethora of other sustainable fish. The dessert however, was the real show stopper with a medley of meringues and fruit purees mimicking an underwater seascape. This meal unquestionably set the stage for our time on Vancouver Island and all the area has to offer.
The next morning, we set out on Raincoast Maiden with Archipelago Cruises bound for the Broken Islands. I have wanted to visit the Broken Islands for years, so I was eager to see all the wildlife we would encounter. Our trip happened to coincide with eagle mating season so right off the bat we spotted eagle after eagle.
On our way out to the Broken Islands we happened upon some friendly harbor seals and a rocky outcropping of several dozen sea lions. When we left Ucluelet in the morning it was overcast with some low-hanging clouds but by midday it was sunny and blue skies. I appreciated the dramatic change in scenery as the sun broke through the clouds and the water’s color changed too many times to count.
Mid-way through our adventure we dropped anchor in a protected cove for lunch. As we feasted on salmon and chicken, we marveled at both the turquoise water and the sheer beauty of the region. Spending the day circumventing the Broken Islands with the fresh air and a constant sea breeze proved to be regenerative in the best possible way.
Once we returned from our boat trip, we made our way to 1909 Kitchen for an unforgettable dinner. 1909 Kitchen is the brainchild of Chef Paul Moran, the current Top Chef of Canada. 1909 Kitchen touts itself as an, “ingredient-driven menu sourced and foraged from Tofino’s oceans, shorelines, and forests.” With a backdrop of mountains and coastline, the stage was set for an unforgettable dining evening.
Rather than order from the menu we allowed Chef Moran to cook for us. Plate after plate made its way to our table where his ingenuity was second only to his flavors. At first bite, Chef Moran had this pregnant woman daydreaming of having him take up residence in our home as our personal chef. Avocado tacos, sea beans, stuffed morels, salmon collar, and halibut rounded out our culinary adventure while we hoped that one day he might open a similar restaurant a little closer to Seattle.
On day three, we traveled with Remote Passages for a half-day kayak tour and cultural history tour of Clayoquot Sound. As we paddled through the protected waters of Tofino’s harbor, we meandered our way past houseboats and islands toward our destination of Meares Island. Once on the island we took a forest walk and learned more about rainforest ecology and the local history.
If you want to really experience a place like Tofino, one of the best ways to do so is on the water. Snagging a boat ride is one of the only ways to reach the remote islands and inlets where this area truly shines.
For our last evening, we settled into Long Beach Lodge in one of their ocean view rooms. As we dined on fresh crab and risotto in the Great Room we were enveloped by a wall of fog. It was both otherworldly and a bit eerie to feel like you were smack dab in the heart of a cloud.
After our meal, the fog had lifted a bit so we walked along the beach and then meandered to one of the fire pits facing the ocean. Conversation around the flames inevitably revolved around how we did not want to return home, but stay just a few more days. It was incredible to be reminded just how special a place this is and how easy it can be to reach — with the right transportation.
Our last morning, we walked along the beach and watched the many surfers trying to catch waves and then made the drive back to Nanaimo for our early afternoon flight.
Surfing might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Canada — which is perhaps why Tofino seems to be such a well-kept secret. That, and the fact that’s it’s located at the end of the road. Literally. But with its 35 kilometers of beaches and an exposed coast, it offers year-round surfing to surfers of all skill levels. Wet suits are typical and classes abound for those who need additional instruction. Because I was pregnant I decided not to pick up a new skill; though it was fascinating to watch as those young and old did.
If you are looking to abandon the day to day and spend your time amongst jaw-dropping scenery then a short flight to Nanaimo or a chartered flight to Tofino is a great place to start.
You can walk miles of sandy beach, try your hand at surfing, enjoy phenomenal culinary experiences and marvel in the natural beauty which surrounds you. And if you are looking for a place to go on your honeymoon or spend your anniversary forget the packed shores of Hawaii and look no further than Vancouver Island.
A truly authentic West coast experience requires venturing a little further beyond the well-worn tourist track, to destinations only accessible by boat and seaplane, like Eagle Nook.
The Carving Shed at the Wickaninnish Inn is pure magic. Located in Tofino, it's where master carvers have gathered for decades and gather still.
With its interactive museums, plethora of parks, and walkable streets, Victoria offers the perfect kid-friendly getaway the whole family will love.
Don’t assume fishing for King Salmon demands braving the rough seas. British Columbia’s Inside Passage is a breathtaking checkerboard of remote islands and protected waterways. At Sund’s Lodge, a fishing getaway is about a lot more than just fishing.
Located beneath the northern tip of Vancouver Island and tucked between two archipelago reserves, rests Sund’s Lodge. This luxury fishing destination is a getaway both the passionate angler and refined vacationer will love.
Owned and operated by husband-wife duo, Bruce and Lisa Barlean, the lodge is only accessible by boat or plane. Opened in 1984, the 38-acre spread on Malcolm Island is just across the water from Cormorant Island.
Between picking mattresses for their newly refurbished cabins and deciding between salmon or halibut for dinner, Bruce and Lisa shared some of their favorite bits about the lodge with me:
MC: Bruce, fishing’s not something new to you, right? You’ve been fishing for quite some time?
Bruce: Yes. My dad was a commercial fisherman. He founded Barlean’s Fishery in 1972. I first went out on the water for a few days when I was seven. But I started fishing full time when I was eight. We’d go out on the boats starting around the 4th of July. Then once school would start in September, I’d just go out on the weekends.
KA: What drew you two to Sund’s Lodge?
Bruce: I always dreamed of having a house on the water. Lisa always dreamed of having a home in the mountains. Sund’s Lodge gave us both the home we always dreamed of. We love living on a dead-end road with only four neighbors. You can sit here and watch the whales and seals go by. And of course, I have a passion for fishing.
Lisa: I have to second Bruce. The scenery here is just incredible. When we bring friends and family up, they have trouble wrapping their heads around what the experience is going to be like until they get here. Because it’s so much more than just fishing. Being here is breathtaking. We regularly hear visitors say this is one of the most incredible, surreal experiences they’ve ever had.
MC: Speaking of scenery Lisa, it seems you’ve really taken advantage of the setting with your photography.
Lisa: You could say photography is my very serious hobby. It’s extended into the lodge as we’ve needed images for building the website and on social media. Whenever I’m walking around the lodge or out fishing, I just can’t put my camera down. It’s that beautiful.
MC: Can you share a little about what fishing at Sund’s is like?
Bruce: We’re an all-inclusive lodge. The food. The alcohol. The guides. The boats. That’s just part of the deal. We even provide raincoats and boots. We just make it easy.
We have ACB boats (Aluminum Chamber Boats), which makes being out on the water significantly more enjoyable. Not only are the boats incredibly safe, they cut through the water really well, so it’s a much calmer ride. Plus, each boat has a cabin with a bathroom, so you can get out of the elements and be comfortable.
Lisa: I like to call it ‘princess fishing.’ You can do all the work if you want. Or you can stand on the boat, enjoy the scenery and wildlife, and let the guide do all the work. The guide gets the fish on the hook. Then they hand you the rod and you reel it in so that you get all the glory.
Bruce: Yeah. That’s one of the things guys often say to me. They say, “I could bring my wife to this lodge.”
The food here is top notch. The accommodations are good. There are a lot of people who think a fishing lodge is just where a bunch of guys go drink and fish. Here, it’s something the wives like too.
MC: So if it’s ‘princess fishing’, what’s staying at the lodge like.
Lisa: The lodge was built in the early 1900s by Finish settlers. We have 38-acres, which is also home to a herd of alpacas and wild deer. So, there’s always plenty of wildlife around.
We can accommodate up to 18 guests at a time. Our 12 guest rooms are being updated this year with new mattresses, fresh linens, and new furniture. We also focus on bringing in highly skilled chefs who serve superb 5-course dinners, tasty breakfasts, and really great lunch
Kenmore Air’s new Seattle-Vancouver route offers the fastest way to travel between these two Cascadia Corridor tech hubs. Working in association with Harbour Air in Canada, it’s now just an hour scenic seaplane flight linking these two international cities.
While 140 miles and a border separate Seattle and Vancouver, the two cities share a great deal. From their ruggedly lush terrain and saltwater shores to their thriving technology-fueled industries, these Pacific Northwest gems are committed to building an economy based on human ingenuity.
This is why Washington State and British Columbia formalized the Cascadia Innovation Corridor last year. This is, ‘An ambitious initiative to get companies, universities and governments on both sides of the border working closer together,’ reported Ryan Holmes in his Seattle Times coverage.
Several pledges have been made on both sides, many of which focus on a commitment to fight climate change and exploring the feasibility of fast and convenient transportation. In order for the association to thrive, it’s paramount the two cities develop practical and convenient means of commuting back and forth.
Taking a direct flight from Seattle’s Lake Union to downtown Vancouver’s Coal Harbour located near Canada Place, passengers can be dock-to-dock in as little as 60 minutes. Additionally, international seaplane travelers face a minimal wait when they arrive at customs, and unlike the large airports of Sea-Tac and Vancouver International, checking in is fast and convenient with no TSA security checkpoints. Plus, passengers are treated to stunning, scenic views.
Alternate options are available. Travelers can certainly drive, but even under ideal conditions, driving between downtown Seattle to downtown Vancouver is about 4 hours, depending on traffic and border crossing wait times. That makes for a really long day if you’re going up for a one-day business meeting. Amtrak provides a scenic ride, although the trip also takes about 4 hours.
If the rugged mountainside and modern technology had a love child – Vancouver would be the result.
Fondly nicknamed ‘The City of Glass,’ this British Columbia metropolis sports a plethora of outdoor parks; a love for local, sustainable cuisine; and a passion for protecting Mother Nature. Literally – the Vancouver Sun recently published a veritable ode to a 600-year-old tree.
The following are just a few of our favorite Vancouver attractions.
Spanning 450 feet, the Capilano Suspension Bridge was originally built in 1889 out of hemp rope and cedar planks. Constructed as an alternative to forging the Capilano River running through the base of the canyon 230 feet below, the bridge connects visitors to a forest carpeted by lush firs and ferns. A series of elevated suspension bridges built within the trees (known as the Treetop Adventure) allows you to explore from over 100 feet in the air. And, the park’s newest addition – Cliffwalk – provides exceptional views of the bridge itself. This series vertigo-inducing walkways are literally pinned directly to the cliff!
Home to more than 50,000 fascinating creatures, the Vancouver Aquarium is tucked in the heart of Stanley Park. From the Arctic to the Amazon, it offers a unique opportunity to come face-to-tentacle with some of the world’s most elusive water-loving animals.
Perched at 430-feet, the Vancouver Lookout offers a 360-degree view of downtown and beyond. On a clear day, you can see Gastown, Coal Harbour, Stanley Park, the Pacific Ocean, North Shore Mountains, the Olympic Peninsula, boats, trains, and seaplanes!
From rich dessert-like malts to fruit-infused IPAs, Vancouver’s craft brewers are taking hop-filled libations to new levels. With a beer geek as your tour guide, explore the local beer scene, sampling and learning about the newest breweries and ones that have been loved for years.
With its large Asian population and close proximity to the sea, Vancouver is home to some of the best and most affordable sushi restaurants in North America. With more than 600 sushi eateries in the metro area alone, you can sample raw fish on practically any corner. Favorite stops include Tojo’s – one of Vancouver’s oldest sushi restaurants that features both traditional and untraditional rolls. Kishimoto is beloved for their house-made tamari dipping sauce. And, not to be overlooked is the ultra-elegant Sushi Bar Maumi, where reservations are a must.
Canada’s only Olympic Museum, The ROX invites you to relive iconic moments and view rare Olympic artifacts. But it’s the sports simulators that are the real reason to visit. From bobsledding and ski jumping to racecar driving and kayaking, you can test your skills and challenge the performance of actual Olympians.
Vancouver is home to the first authentic classical Chinese garden ever built outside of China. The Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, an immaculately manicured sanctuary is located downtown. Its harmonious elements were constructed to make rock, water, plants, and architecture flow together.
Nearly 1,000-acres, Stanley Park is located on a peninsula at the center of Vancouver. Its shores border both Vancouver Harbour and English Bay. The varied terrain includes 400-hectare of natural West Coast rainforest, extensive walking and running paths, a beautiful display of First Nation totem poles, several restaurants, the Vancouver Aquarium, and more. While you can certainly explore the park on foot or by bike, horse-drawn carriage rides offer a leisurely and unique way to soak in the natural beauty.
Formerly an industrial site, Granville Island has become one of Vancouver’s most beloved neighborhoods. Best known for its open-air market, the island’s former factories are also home to trendy restaurants, galleries, and Canada’s first microbrewery – Granville Island Brewing. While you can reach the island by car, our favorite way to get there is aboard the passenger fair.
Like sushi, Vancouver knows more than a thing or two about dim sum. This Cantonese cuisine, with its emphasis on clean flavors and fresh ingredients, features age-old recipes and techniques handed down through the generations. The family-friendly dining rooms encourage sharing, so make sure to bring your appetite and your friends. Among our top picks is The Jade Seafood Restaurant where the dumplings feature refined wrappers without the oil and pork buns are tender and sweet. Also delightful is the Dynasty Seafood Restaurant and Pink Pearl.
Explore More Seaplane Destinations
Located just Northeast of Campbell River’s world famous fishing grounds, Dent Island Lodge is a droplet of luxury among British Columbia’s wilderness.
A resort-like lodge. Customized fishing adventures. Exceptional restaurant cuisine. Dent Island Lodge is salmon fishing magnificence.
The lodge’s Stuart Island location is tucked between Vancouver Island and British Columbia’s mainland. It overlooks Cordero Strait and the Canoe Rapids. Here, the narrow tidal cut changes directions four times a day. The white water brilliance is massive as currents hit one another among a backdrop of lush old growth forests.
Fishing
Spend the day casting on fresh water for salmon and trout on the British Columbia’s pristine rivers. Wake up the following day and go trolling for salmon. This is charter fishing at its finest. You pick the adventure. Dent Island Lodge’s expert guides make it happen.
Cuisine
Dining in the wilderness is a unique endeavor. Farm-to-table, or in this case sea-to-table, dining isn’t just a fad when your kitchen is accessible by only boat or seaplane. It’s a necessity. The results at Dent Island Lodge are astounding.
Their dining room has earned such a reputation among the yachting community that it’s a destination. Dinners are treated to five-course extravaganzas that begin with hors d’oeuvres and mingling in the lounge. It’s the perfect, informal opportunity to enjoy a cocktail and swap stories with friends and family. Entrees vary from day to day, depending on what’s fresh and available. You might have wild salmon one night and roasted leg of lamb the next. The chef frequently prepares fresh local Dungeness crab, halibut, and duck. Regardless of what’s on the menu, dining here is an event – a meal meant to be savored, lingered over, and maybe even extended with a post-dinner liqueur.
Lodging
Near the main lodge, cabins are tucked into the landscape. Each features a private deck with views of the surrounding straights and channels. It’s so peaceful you might contemplate giving your old rod a day to rest will you sit outside, read and breathe in the fresh air.
With cities that continue to grow and traffic that won’t relinquish its grip, the old-school nature lover must travel beyond freeway-mapped routes. They must trek where cars can’t reach and people rarely venture.
Sure five star hotels and luxury spas are nice. I love them. I really do. But there’s something about immersing yourself in the wild – in the preserved and pristine countryside where the air tastes like glacier water and the animals roam free.
Carved into the Sunshine Coast, at the head of Princess Louisa Inlet, Chatterbox Falls might steal your heart. It stole a bit of mine.
Here, old-growth forests tower among magnificent granite walls. The placid waters are mirror-like. And, sounds of water tumbling 120 feet into a glorious mist echoes throughout the canyon.
It’s hard to narrow down why Chatterbox Falls should be on your bucket list. To sum it up into just a few bullet points is tough. It seems almost criminal. Because it’s not just one or a few things that make this place a sliver of paradise. It’s the all of them and more. Still, I had to try. Here are the top seven reasons:
There are two ways to reach Chatterbox Falls: boat and seaplane. Each is unique and beautiful in its own right. However, one has the added perks of a bird’s eye view and a less than three-hour travel time. Flying into the canyon lets you get up close and personal with the glacier-capped mountains that rest above and the rugged cliffs that fall straight-faced into the water.
The frothing base of Chatterbox Falls is easily the star attraction. With a storybook-like presence, its tumbling waters are mere yards from the small, rocky beaches at the inlet’s head. However, until mid-June its stunning display is accented by more than sixty additional waterfalls. The cascading streams are fed by the melting snow-pack from the mountains above.
Why should savoring Mother Nature end when the sun goes down? Bring a lawn chair, some firewood, and your favorite drink. At the Chatterbox Falls marine park, you’ll find a communal fire pit – the perfect spot for sipping a libation (or two).
(To preserve the park’s natural beauty, this is the only spot you are allowed to build a fire.)
While the waters of Princess Louisa Inlet rise and fall with the tide, currents are practically nonexistent. The result is water temperatures that range between 70 – 78 degrees in the summer. So go ahead. Take a salt-water dip.
There are 800 meters of trails and boardwalks throughout Chatterbox Falls park. They traverse beneath the old-growth forests and beside the misty shrouded rocks. Beyond the park’s border are a series of longer and significantly more difficult hikes. These include Trappers Cabin, approximately a two-hour trek; an alpine excursion, roughly seven hours; and an “ice field” climb to the glaciers, about an additional half-day. Each of these trails is recommend for experienced mountaineers only. But if you’re up for the challenge, they’re worth the effort.
Throughout park you’ll find benches tucked along the path. They are positioned to take advantage of the views, offering spots perfect for a lingering picnic or a quiet moment of reflection.
From the deafening roar to the cooling spray, standing in the mist of Chatterbox Falls is like dipping your toe into Mother Nature’s power. The climb into the mist is a heart pounding, laugh-inducing dance. It’s one you must be careful making. The rocks are VERY slippery. But, it is one you’ll never forget.
It doesn’t look like much from the air – just a collection of windows tucked between the trees – but that’s the beauty of the West Coast Wilderness Lodge.
With its unassuming simplicity, it feels as though this 26-room getaway could have grown from the hillside itself. It didn’t.
The lodge was built by Paul Hansen, a former educator turned entrepreneur, and his wife Pattie. Their original vision was to create an educational center. Over the years, this vision evolved into a vacation destination known for its recreational activities and exceptional cuisine. But, the lodge’s educational roots remain embedded in its very framework.
Offering a plethora of activities, each guide-led excursion includes an educational element. “Our staff is exceptional. They really know the area. So when you’re out with them, they don’t just tell you about it. They share it with you,” Paul explained while sitting on the deck at sunset.
Located at the crossroads of four major waterways, the lodge offers kayaking for individuals of all skill levels. Standard kayak rentals are available. However, the guided tours are exceptional. Guides, like current kayak expert Kevin, know the best inlets and destinations.
Whether you take a tour or not, a trip across the waterway is highly recommended. There are a series of uninhabited islands located directly in front of the lodge. They are a favorite for seals. The sun-loving mammals like to catch some rays on the protective rocks. A curious bunch, the seals will often surround the kayaks as you paddle by, popping up here and there for a look at who is visiting. Don’t be surprised by their cackling calls and husky sneezes. They’re just saying hello.
Additional kayaking excursions include a twilight phosphorescence trip. Due to a natural occurrence, the algae in this area glows at night, making the water look like the sky filled with stars.
If summer camp and fine dining had a baby, the Inlets Restaurant would have been the result. Powered by executive chef Tim Kozody, the menu’s cuisine offers a bit of backcountry flare. The constantly changing menu might feature smoked potatoes. You could find halibut adorned with fiddlehead ferns. And, you’ll often discover mushroom appetizers infused with foraged goodies.
Oysters here are always a good bet. Spot prawns are sourced from just down the road. Did I mention the mussels? They are cooked in a fragrant broth that perfumes the air even before you get a taste.
The dining room’s soaring ceilings and stunning wood-planked floor are matched by the waterfront view. At the eastern edge of the restaurant rests a curved wood bar. Behind it you’ll often find the Hansen’s son, Lucas. A master of his craft, he leads martini-making classes at 5:00 PM (upon request).
While dinner and cocktails are definitely a highlight, breakfast is not to be overlooked. Those who like to start their morning with something sweet will love the Cinnamon Apple French Toast. It comes topped with candied nuts and a healthy drizzle of true maple syrup.
For the savory breakfast goers, look no further than The Grizzly – a smoked salmon Benedict. This hearty meal features slices of smoked salmon and avocado, two perfectly poached eggs, and a hollandaise that’s impressively delicate. Unlike the thick buttered sauce traditionally globed atop eggs, Chef Kozody’s rendition is bright and fresh. It accentuates the egg yolk-salmon combo for an unctuous bite that will make you a member of the clean plate club.
Ready to start exploring? Book your trip soon. The lodge has a tendency to fill up quickly.
We left Ganges in a four-seater, red convertible. The top was down. The sun was shining. A tourist map was clutched in my hands.
Our threesome – Colleen Eastman, Danny Levin and I – had a deep-seated need for the creamy goodness known as goat cheese. We were headed to Salt Spring Island Cheese.
The car was a loner, compliments of Roberta Martell, the Sustainability Director at Harbour House, a hotel and working farm on the island.
Less than an hour earlier, she and her trusty four-legged sidekick, Rocky, picked us up just past the gates of Ganges Harbour. Now we were winding our way out of town. It didn’t take long.
The droplet of island we were calling home for the day was just 74 square miles. Thriving on tourism and agriculture, the countryside was largely undeveloped. Bushes grew boldly beside the road. They blocked many a street sign. We saw small homes graced by dirt driveways and pastures filled with goats. There were country gardens, country drivers, and a long-since-forgotten tractor beside a barn. We passed an old stone church overlooking Swartz Bay and nearly passed the small sign to the creamery.
The one-lane farm road suggested we might have been better off borrowing a pickup truck. Its bumpy terrain cut through a lush field of grass and beneath a cool canopy of trees.
From the base of the parking lot we could make out the wood buildings of the creamery.
The shingled sides and slanted roofs were adorned by ivy. It framed the doorways and windows. Near the back of the buildings, a lace curtain billowed out of a second story doorway as though it had been plucked from a French cottage.
Or perhaps it was from Scotland. The curtain marked the residence of David Wood, the creamery’s owner and a former Scott.
Wood sold his first cheese in 1996. The sale marked the six-year culmination of trial and error on the farm and in the kitchen. In those days, Salt Spring Island Cheese raised and milked its own goats. Nearly 20 years later, producing enough milk to keep up with the demand was no longer practical. “These goats are just for show,” Wood said as he walked us through the grounds.
Obviously, the small farm had been outfitted for visitors. A covered wooden pathway ran between the stables and creamery. Large viewing windows offered a real-time look at the making and packaging process. “Just like when we started, everything is handmade right here. We still use traditional methods and we still use high-quality ingredients,” said Wood.
Goat’s milk is inherently smoother than milk taken from its more widely popular sister, the cow. This is because the fat particles in goat’s milk are much smaller. But the real key to a creamy chèvre is the concentration of fat. “You have to really squeeze out the water,” explained Wood.
The smooth texture for which Salt Spring Island Cheese has become well known is only part of what makes this cheese so exceptional. It’s the luscious, almost sweet flavor that has garnered it international attention. Unlike many of the other goat cheese brands, Salt Spring’s chèvres lack the overwhelming tangy finish that can leave your mouth feeling dry and puckered. Wood attributes this to the creamery’s pasteurization process.
Using the “low and slow method,” as Wood calls it, the milk is heated at 145 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes. “You can also do it at 172 degrees Fahrenheit for 18 seconds. The process is a lot faster, which many big cheese producers like. But the low and slow method causes less damage to the milk’s fat,” said Wood. It’s damaging the fat that brings out that strong tang.
The farm’s shop, a long, low-ceilinged room, is flanked by a nearly equally long cheese counter. Available for tasting are free samples of the creamery’s entire line of goat-based cheeses. While the base of each is simple – goat milk, sea salt, dairy culture, and rennet – the beautiful molds tell a more varied story.
You’ll find they’re infused with everything from basil to chilis. There is a Flower Chèvere, Garlic Chèvere and Lemon Chèvere. They use olives, truffles, and peppercorns. The most popular of all is their Ruckles. It features small logs of goat cheese marinated in grape seed oil, fresh herbs, and garlic.
Though best known for their chèvres, the creamery also make fetas, surface-ripened cheeses, and a hard cheese. I found the Blue Juliette, a surface-ripened blue that pairs nicely with red wine, to be particularly delightful.
Our motley crew was leaving with several containers to take home, but we couldn’t help ourselves. We had to try a scoop, okay two, of the creamery’s goat cheese ice cream. Smooth like custard, it was the perfect treat to enjoy on the patio.
If you’re looking for grand entryways or manicured lawns, look elsewhere.
But, if you’re looking for a destination where the strawberries are picked that morning and the eggs are straight from under a hens bum – head to the Harbour House Hotel on Salt Spring Island.
Positioned on a hill just above Ganges Harbour, this rustic resort looks a bit like a converted farmhouse. It should. Behind its two-story residence is a 3-acre farm. The hillside’s been tamed by sheer willpower and muscle as terraced stone beds have been built into the sloping ground.
Here, farm-to-table is not just a quaint term thrown around because it’s popular. “During the peak season, we grow 90 percent of what’s served in our restaurant,” said Roberta Martell, Harbour House’s Sustainability Director.
They raise their own sheep for meat and beehives for honey. Heck, they even make their own syrup by tapping the farm’s broad leaf maples.
Hotel guests and visitors are invited to explore the grounds, but a word to the wise – watch your step. While by farm standards, the grounds are clean, the goats and chickens are far from potty trained.
Farmed Since 1916
In the early 1900s, two newlyweds purchased the 100-acre seafront property. The intention was simple – raise things. That’s just what they did, including: six children, dozens of livestock, fruits, vegetables, and herbs.
As the years progressed, the family house was transformed into a 12-bedroom guesthouse. The farm continued to operate, but portions of the plot were gradually sold. By the early 2000s, only 17 acres of the original plot remained. Abandoned to Mother Nature, they grew into a thicket of alders, blackberries, and wild roses.
That’s exactly how Jack and Glenda Woodward found it when they purchased the hotel and farm in 2004. Again, the goal was simple – raise things. However, the Woodward’s also wanted to share. That’s exactly what they’re doing.
The hotel is a beacon for diners looking to eat off the land. Five acres of the land have been deer-fenced and three of the protected acres have been cleared by the farm’s trusty goatherd. They are farmed year-round. Literally, something is harvested from the farm every day. The head farmer, Rob Scheres, records all that’s taken by hand.
Originally from Holland, Scheres grew up on a farm where he learned traditional techniques he brought with him to Salt Spring Island. For example, Scheres grows his melons vertically, cradling them in women’s hairnets.
Herbs are also grown year round. In the Basil House, a two-room wooden hut constructed without nails, hot water baths are used during the winter months to heat the space.
The Cuisine
The restaurant at the Harbour House Hotel makes “fresh” seem like a cuisine.
Their menu focuses primarily on what’s harvested from the farm, supplementing its impressive yield with island-sourced ingredients when needed.
It’s a tactic that doesn’t lend itself to a consistent menu. Feel free to peruse your options online, but be prepared to change your mind when you see the daily specials.
And, don’t be shy about collecting your own eggs. The two-page regular menu is dominated by egg-filled options, but Chef Chad isn’t the only one who gets to gather eggs. You can too.
At the farm’s Egg Emporium, you can grab your own eggs from under the hens. The kitchen will wash them and then use them for your breakfast. Especially delightful is the Farm Frittata. Changing seasonally, it’s been known to arrive packed with goat cheese and scallions.
The Farm Stand
The majority of the farm’s bounty makes its way into the kitchen on site, but a portion of each day’s pickings are sold at the hotel’s Farm Stand. The offerings are eclectic. You never know what you’ll find. There could be arugula and kale one day and broccoli and melons the next. You might find herbs, lettuce, and eggs. One thing’s for sure, it’s always fresh.
The stand sits behind the resort, just to the right of the farm’s main gate. It’s unmanned. Operated on the honor system, the Harbour House leaves a small jar on one of the wooden counters. Visitors and locals alike pop in to see the options and drop money as appropriate.
