NEW ROUTE – Victoria International Airport (YYJ) departing from Paine Field, Friday Harbor Airport, and Boeing Field
There are hills to hike, waterfalls to explore, and plates of eggs Benedict to devour. This is your ultimate Pacific Northwest travel bucket list. And, it’s just in time for kicking off the New Year!
It’s loaded with seaside cocktails, DIY brewery tours, and can’t-miss donuts. It features remote fishing destinations, sea-to-table cuisine, and some of the most Instagram-worthy spots around.
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Like every small town, Roche Harbor has its own unique traditions that keep the locals stepping in time and the tourists relishing their vacation. The mornings at this water-side village begin with carillons from Our Lady of Good Voyage and hot donuts, freshly made at the Lime Kiln Café.
Jo Jo makes the donuts Monday through Friday. She opens the kitchen way too early (at least by this lady’s standards) and goes straight to work mixing batter and heating oil. She’ll make about 100 donuts a day during the shoulder season. During the busy summer months, the production is an entirely different story – Jo Jo will make several hundred a day!
As a San Juan Island native, Jo Jo’s favorite donut is vanilla with sprinkles; or wait, maybe her favorite is cinnamon and sugar, when it’s hot. Really, it’s both. And it has been since the Lime Kiln Café was just a tiny kitchen on the pier.
Back then, the restaurant was a simple walk-up window – a far cry from the established diner we now know. The little kitchen, then known as Johnny R’s, earned a devoted fanbase for its perfect fried confections. While the building has changed, name evolved, and menu grown, the fresh doughnuts have remained a mainstay.
These sweet treats keep the locals fortified and the visitors hungry for more. They are perfect when paired with strong coffee and a second donut (just sayin’).
You don’t have to be a boat lover to enjoy this boater’s paradise. Roche Harbor’s richly preserved history offers nineteenth-century clapboard buildings, old gardens and incredible sunsets – all perfect for relaxing. Enjoy local seafood, some of the best doughnuts in the Pacific Northwest and views of the surrounding mountains. Whether you arrive by boat or seaplane, be sure to keep an eye out for pods of local orcas which can frequently be seen playing in the waters surrounding the San Juan Islands.
7:00 PM – Dinner at Madrona Bar and Grill
Stroll in for a laid back meal at the Madrona Bar and Grill where the seafood is fresh and the drinks are flavorful. Among the menu favorites is the prawn and avocado margarita cocktail. Packed with black tiger prawns, this baby is garnished with a smooth touch of avocado and a kick of homemade, wasabi infused cocktail sauce.
9:00 AM – Breakfast at the Lime Kiln Café
Doughnuts at the Lime Kiln Café might just be the best in the Pacific Northwest. These cake like babies are certainly a far cry from your Krispy Kreme, national chain experience. This mom and pop joint makes theirs fresh daily in a variety of flavors including: cinnamon sugar, chocolate frosting and maple glaze. Beyond the sugar-fried goodness, they dish up some savory options worth snagging a seat to enjoy. Sit on the deck for a view of the marina.
10:30 AM – Stretch your legs with the alpacas
Three miles from Roche Harbor are 80-acres of gently rolling grass hills. Speckled with shade from 100-year-old oaks, the Krystal Acres Alpacas farm is an idyllic setting for stretching your legs. Their large alpaca herd roams the grounds, totaling 80 in number and still growing. Have alpaca questions? Keep an eye out for Kristen (aka Kris), one of the owners. She can frequently be found tending the herd in her signature green coveralls. For a take-home memento, visit their Country Store where you’ll find a vast selection of alpaca toys, clothing, and accessories.
Krystal Acres Alpacas – 3501 West Valley Rd., Friday Harbor
12:30 PM – Dig in on Fresh Seafood
Located at the bottom of the ramp on Roche Harbor’s main dock, this summer-only stand sells fresh seafood. Caught in the morning and sold in the afternoon, North Sound Seafood typically has a selection of shrimp and crab, plus smoked salmon. This year, local owner and operator, Keith Porter, will expand his offerings to include locally caught clams, oysters and salmon fillets. Depending on how you like your seafood, you might want to hit up the Roche Harbor Market for a loaf of fresh bread or some crackers. Also of note, last summer Keith flew in a few live king crabs. Those babies alive are a site to behold.
Roche Harbor Market – 195 Reuben Memorial Dr, Friday Harbor
2:00 PM – Get out in the water
Take to the sea in a kayak made for two (or three). Explore the calm waters of the harbor and the expansive views of Haro Straight, the Olympic Mountains, Cascade Mountains, and beautiful shoreline. Keep an eye out for fins. Haro Straight is known as the “Orca Highway.” You just might encounter one of the San Juan Islands’ resident pods.
Sunset – Watch the Colors Ceremony
This is considered a must for the full Roche Harbor experience. Wander down to the docks in the early evening for the Colors Ceremony. From May 8 – Sept. 27, 10 minutes before sunset, each of Roche Harbor’s flags is lowered to their given anthem. In the grand finale, the American flag is lowered to the sound of a solo trumpet playing taps. Following the Colors Ceremony, announcements are made over the loud speaker as birthdays are shared, anniversaries recognized and special guests are welcomed.
7:30 PM – Dinner at McMillin’s Dining Room
Think island formal. Think two to three hours of indulging in savory and sweet bites. Think waterside views, exceptional service, and celebration. That’s what you’ll find at McMillin’s. They are best known for their prime rib. This is a 40-day-aged, dry rub, slow roasted, sliced to order affair. Enjoy a drink (or maybe two) and watch the last of the sun slip below the water as you dine in elegance.
8:00 AM – Breakfast at Beechtree
Visit Beechtree and sip like you’re at home. Serving Starbucks coffee, this small coffee stand offers all the regular lattes, mochas, and espresso shots you want. A selection of light breakfast options are also available ranging from yogurt and granola to pastries and fruit. During the afternoon, this café transforms into an ice cream shop, dishing up cold treats perfect for warm days.
9:00 AM – Self-Guided Tour
Roche Harbor’s rich history is preserved throughout the town. On the self-guided walking tour, you’ll find historic sites such as the Hotel de Haro, built in 1886 as lodging for John McMillin’s customers.
There are donuts. And then there are donuts from Roche Harbor Resort’s Lime Kiln Café.
Plucked from the Donut Robot Mark II, these cake-like babies are moist, with a toothsome bite you can really sink into. Coated with sugar. Dipped in chocolate. Naked as the moment they came out of the fryer. It doesn’t really matter how you get your hands on these donuts, as long as you get one before the café runs out.
And run out they do, especially on the Fourth of July. Even with the industrial size mixer and donut machine working non-stop before the small café even opens, they’re nearly always behind. Together, these two workhorses pump out an impressive 37 dozen donuts an hour. It’s not enough.
“We can’t keep up. Especially on the Fourth, the line will stretch all the way around the building,” said Lime Kiln Café Manager, Megan Marquette.
However, the Fourth of July is a rare occurrence. Between the donut-eating-contest and the completely sold out resort, there’s a lot of demand. On a regular day, you’re more likely to wait only few minutes for your choice of plain, chocolate, vanilla, maple, sprinkles or cinnamon and sugar.
During the summer months, they also feature the “Flavor of the Day,” such as Cinnamon Toast Crunch. “It tastes a lot like a churro,” explained Megan.
What’s Megan’s favorite? Salted caramel. “We’ve started experimenting with different flavor toppings and that one just gets me every time,” she said.
The donut machine is tucked at the edge of the kitchen, just beyond the cash register. A large dispenser plops round donuts out of a ring mold into the perfectly heated hot oil conveyor belt bath. The machine fries, flips and scoops the donuts until they are bronze. It then carefully lifts them out on a wire rack and drops them onto a lined cookie sheet. Megan arranges the donuts in neat little rows to cool. (Or to be eaten immediately. Whatever’s your pleasure.)
Donuts can certainly be eaten as a side at breakfast. But with the café’s platter size portions, it’s hard to find room. Those in the know often stop by for their pre-breakfast coffee and indulge in a bit of a nibble. Or, they make the return trip for a mid-morning snack. For our part, we often opt for the to-go mode, picking up a donut (aka a dozen) for the flight back home.
